一、全毛衬工艺
这是一种体现世界西服最高档次、最具传统、最经典的精品西服,svg和canvas的区别即西服上衣的大身、驳头和挂面等部位不粘胶衬,完全依靠毛衬来衬托西服的造型。西服的胸部和肩部使用由优质黑碳衬、高密度马尾衬和胸绒组合而成的胸衬。用这种工艺缝制的西服,不仅衣身合体,穿着舒适,而且西服的外形线条流畅、立体感很强。尤其西服的胸部成形非常饱满、挺括。因为这种西服的缝制是以手工操作为主,做工十分考究,制作过程耗费的工时较多,选用的面料和辅料都很高档,所以西服的制作成本很高,约为普通西服成本的5~6倍。这种工艺是目前高级定制西服和高档名牌西服首选的制作工艺。而且,制作全毛衬西服对于西服厂的设备和工艺要求很高,相当部分企业没有能力制作全毛衬西服。
二、半毛衬工艺是在全毛衬西服工艺的基础上进行适当简化而形成的,它保留了全毛衬工艺的主要特点,这种半毛衬西服。它的覆衬通常有2种方式:其中一种是在西服前衣片的相应部位粘合有纺粘合衬作大身衬,而驳头衬则用黑碳衬;另一种也是在西服前衣片上粘合有纺粘合衬作大身衬,然后在大身腰节以上的部位选用优质黑碳衬作主胸衬,驳头衬也用同样的黑碳衬。在裁剪衬片时可将主胸衬与驳头衬连在一起裁剪,也可将驳头衬与主胸衬分别裁剪
与覆衬,业内人士通常称后一种做法为“挖驳头”工艺。在胸部和肩部同样选用优质黑碳衬、高密度马尾衬和胸绒制成的组合胸衬。用这种工艺制作的西服,衣身较为轻薄、流畅,穿着合体舒适。与传统工艺西服相比,它的做法相对简便、省时,加工成本有所降低,但成衣的保形性不及传统工艺西服。 三、粘合衬工艺是在半毛衬工艺基础上的再简化,在半毛衬基础上取消了驳头衬和纳驳头的工艺,生产成本较前两者最低,适合工业化大批量生产。以满足工薪阶层的需求。
Full canvas,
The modelling is based on the suit’s woolcanvas including the body,lapel and facing with no mucilage glue canvas.All chest canvas and lapel are made by high quality black carbon canvas. In this craft ,it can be more fit ,more confortable and the outline is more fluency,the third dimension is stronger,espcially the chest is very satiation.As the craft takes handmade as the principal thing,it needs more time, the fabric and accessory are top grade ,the costs of conversion is higher.This craft is the fist choose for the MTM and f
amous brand suit . The full canvas craft need high process requirements and equipment,many factory can not make the full canvas ,bu we can do it.
half canvas
The half canvas is more simply than full canvas, it keeps almost characteristics of the full canvas .Usually it has two styles : the front part has woven fused as the body, but the lapel is used black carbon canvas ; the other’s body is same as first one ,but the main chest canvas and lapel are made by high quality black carbon canvas. The chest canvas and lapel can be tailored at the same time , they can also be tailed respectively. The chest canvas and shoulder are made by combined interlining which is made up by high quality black carbon canvas, high density horsehair interlining and woolen. In this craft, the cloth is more frivolous, fluency and comfortable and the CMT is lower, but the style is less than traditional craft suit.
The fused
The fused is more simplify than half canvas, it cancel the craft of lapel canvas and lapel , the cost is lower than the others ,it is suitable for industrialize mass-production. It can suit the salariat’s demand.
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