R 型及KE 型活性染料在锦/棉染中的应用
郭万友  浙江华东纺织印染有限公司(312030)肖幸丰  浙江霞光丝绸练染有限公司(312300)
摘 要 R 型/中性一浴染可将染时间从原来的10h 缩短为4~5h ,修可降温后直接加料。由于中性条件固,避免碱性条件下的锦纶手感损伤。KE 型活性染料染后,在染锦纶时pH 值不可太低,以6~7为宜,避免酸性条件下染料-纤维键断裂。
叙 词: 染 活性染料 混纺织物 聚酰胺纤维 棉纤维中图分类号: TS 193.632
1 前言
受台湾省及东南亚市场影响,锦/棉织物一度十分热销及流行,报道这方面染的文章也较多。出于湿牢度方面的考虑,国内大多采用活性/酸性二浴,耗时长,染料助剂也大多为进口。R 型活性染料由于在中性高温浴中固,且对锦纶纤维几乎不沾,而中性染料染锦纶的pH 值也在7左右,从而为一浴染提供了基础。KE 型活性染料,如巴斯夫公司XL +型,对锦纶纤维沾少或几乎不沾,从而也为锦/棉染提供了一
种新方法,并可相应降低成本。本文简要介绍了在锦/棉染中应用这两种工艺的成功经验。
2 工艺
2.1 工艺材料
锦/棉定形半成品,KYR 活性染料(日本化药),KE 型活性染料,螯合分散剂T F-510A,尼龙防染剂HF -918,浴中抗皱剂T F -208A ,酸性匀染剂T -33等。2.2 R 型活性染料/中性染料一浴工艺
常温
 ↑A 5min ↑B 5min ↑C 10min ↑D 10min ↑E
10min
 1~1.5℃/min
75℃A -浴中抗皱剂及螯合分散剂1~2g/L ;
B-Buffer P -70.5~1.5g/L ;
C-酸性匀染剂1g /L 或锦纶防染剂1%~3%;D -元明粉;E-R 型活性染料及中性染料。
         15~20min 100℃(110℃)20~50min g
R 型染料活性基为烟酸基团,带正电,可在中性条件下
完成亲核取代反应,不需加碱,属温控型染料,操作方便。其中Buffer P-7能使染浴pH 值维持7左右;锦纶防染剂的加入除可提高锦纶防染效果外,也可作中性
染料的匀染剂,但不可过多,以免影响中性染料上染率。R 型染料若染中深时,为防止中性染料盐析,可在75℃保温阶段时分次加入元明粉。2.3 KE 型活性染料在锦/棉染中的工艺
常温 ↑浴中抗皱剂螯合分散剂5min ↑元明粉10min ↑型KE 活性染料
15min ↑碱1/3纯10min  30min 85℃
reactive dyeing10↑ 纯碱2/320~50min g
  实践证明,常温时预加碱工艺比常规高温加碱工艺的防染效果好,此时染料反应性低。锦纶在预加碱后带负电,与染料阴离子之间有斥力,从而有较好的防染
效果,且将固分为两个阶段,有利于匀染。为进一步提高防染效果,可加入锦纶防染剂。
3 结论
3.1 R 型活性/中性一浴染可将染时间从原来的10h 缩短为4~5h 左右,修也较M 型活性/酸性工
艺容易,可降温后直接加料。由于在中性条件下固,可避免碱性条件下的锦纶手感损伤。
3.2 实践证明,R 型活性/中性一浴染也可将温度升到110℃左右。活性染料对锦纶沾影响不大,因而可缩短保温时间,且在中性条件下固,可避免酸性条件活性染料-纤维键的断裂,从而达到各自所需牢度。3.3 KE 型活性染料染后续染锦纶时pH 值不可太低,以6~7为宜,避免酸性条件下染料-纤维键断裂。
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15
 R 型及KE 型活性染料在锦/棉染中的应用                印 染(2001No .9) 
起绉染工艺
5min ↑
剂5min
10min
40℃
 2℃/min
110℃×40min
 2℃/min
g80℃
尼龙玻璃化温度约为60℃,在玻璃化温度以下,染料上染速度较慢,所以,在60℃以下以较快速率升温。60~98℃,要以较慢速率升温,以利匀染。起绉工艺升温速度较快,因为酸性染料染尼龙在110℃保温,匀染性大大提高,可以以较快速率升温。
4.2 pH值
用酸性染料染尼龙,达到染平衡的pH值范围为4~6,在这个pH值范围内进行染最为适宜。用醋酸和醋酸铵组成缓冲液控制染液的pH值,室温下测定其pH值如表2所示。
表 2
冰醋酸,g/L醋酸铵,g/L pH值
0.20.4  4.92
0.40.4  4.54
0.60.4  4.34
0.80.4  4.21
4.3 助剂用量
冰醋酸,g/L       0.2~0.8
醋酸铵,g/L0.4
匀染剂,g/L0.5~1
消泡剂,g/L1
染料,%(ow f)x
当做德司达公司的Telon(特隆)染料三原时,冰醋酸用量不能超过0.4g/L,以防花;当含有100 %直接耐晒翠蓝GL的配方时,冰醋酸用量不能超过0.6g/L,以防因酸变。
5 固
尼龙服装面料牢度要求较高,且空气变形丝牢度较其他尼龙丝差,一般要进行固处理。经助剂商提供固剂进行试验,以固剂NBS固效果较好。
5.1 助剂用量
分散洗缸剂OLG,g/L     0.2
固剂NBS,%(o wf)2~4
pH值(用冰醋酸调节)4~5
因固剂
NBS会与匀染剂反应生成褐粘状沉淀物,从而沾污布面形成固剂斑,影响质量,故加入分散洗缸剂OLG以防止NBS与匀染剂反应。
5.2 固工艺
5min
O L G
5min
N BS
10m in
40℃
 3℃/m in
70℃×20min
5.3 操作要点
分散洗缸剂OLG稀释后先加入,再将NBS稀释后加入,最后加入稀释的冰醋酸,次序不能颠倒。
6 匀染处理
生产过程中因卡布会不可避免地产生花现象。产生花后必须进行处理,通常用碱和匀染剂进行返修处理。
返修工艺配方,g/L
氨水            0.6
匀染剂1
染料,%(o wf)6
先加入氨水,匀染剂,染料,直接升温至98℃,保温30min;降温至60℃以下,缓慢加入稀释冰醋酸1 g/L,然后按正常程序染和固。
以上工艺经本厂实践,切实可行,染一等品率86%以上,等外品率3%以下。但若要取得更好质量,必须要加强操作培训,减少人为因素影响。
(收稿日期:2001-05-02)
  (上接第15页)
3.4 由于锦纶大多用弱酸性(浅)、中性染料,谱不齐,可用M型活性/酸性工艺弥补。
3.5 我公司已成功生产70D×21S110×76锦/棉平布、JC40S×N100D等品种,取得较好效果及效益。
参考文献
[1] 宋心远,沈煜如.染料工业,2000,(1):1~15.
[2] 吴金波等.印染.2000,26(11):21~23.
(收稿日期:2001-05-07)
17
 尼龙织物喷射染工艺                          印 染(2001No.9) 
DYEING AND FINISHING(Monthly)     Vol.27,No.9,Sep.,2001
Contents and Abstracts
・RESEARCH REPORTS・
Dyeing Behavior Improvement of CA Finished Fabric and Its One Bath Technique
In this pa per,the m a chani cal properties and d yeabili ty of the cotton fabri c treated by citri c acid were researched.The ef fects w ere studied by using many ki nds of additi ves such a s tri ethanola m i ne(TEA),polyethylene glycol(PEG)and chitosan (CTA).T hen the conventiona l tw o step dyei ng and fi
nishing technique were stud ied,and the optimum techni que of single ba th were used to ensure whether the si ngl e bath techni que i s feasi ble for the fa bri c fi nished by CA w hen using the K type reacti ve dyes.
Key Terms D yeing Finish One bath process Polycarboxy lic acid Cotton f abric
Quan Heng et al(1)…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Dyeing Properties of Bi-f unctional Reactive Dyes on Tencel Fabric Treated with C oncentrated Caustic Soda This paper compared dyei ng properti es of bi functiona l rea ctive d yes on Tencel fa bric with concentrated causti c soda.The results show that it has hi gh percenta ge of exhaustion and depth of shade and ali ke rel ative dye fi xing percentage.
Key Terms D yeing Reactive d y e D yeing pro perty Cellulose f iber Tencel Alkali treatment …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Zhu Yawei et al(4)
・TECHNIQUES OF MANUFACTURE・
Desizing and C austicizing Pretreatment f or Polyester-Viscose Fabric in One Bath
In accordance with unsati sfactory deep and bril lia nt color problems during disperse/reactive dyeing for pol yester vi scose blend ed fabric,open pretreatment of desizi ng and causti ci zing in one step i s adopted.Through lab oratory a nd bulk tri als,the ideal deep color effect is obta ined.
Key Terms Pretreatment Desizing Causticizing One step Poly ester-viscose f abric …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Song Yong et al(6) Continuous Scouring-Bleaching-Dyeing Process f or Linen Yarn
Due to the di sadva ntages existi ng in li nen treatment,continuous process of scouri ng and bleaching and dyeing for l inen rove is di scussed.T he opti m a l process and its sa tisfactory results are availa ble.
Key Terms Pretreatment D y eing Linen y arn ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Han Changj in et al(8) Cause and Solution for Blotchy in Scouring Kier
This arti cl e analyzes the reason of bl otchy caused by old rope bleachi ng producti on line for manufacturi ng lower grade cot ton fabric,and also presents their solution method s.By means of non phosphorous chel ating agent substituti ng for soda, blotchy defects are greatly reduced.Both economical and soci al benefits are increased obvi ously.
Key Terms Scouring and bleaching machine Kier Stain Reason Measure ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Yue Shif ang et al(11) Air Flow Dyeing and Air Flow Dyeing Machine
Air flow dyeing is a new dyei ng method,featuring low liquor ratio,l ess energy consum pti on and pollution,and is reputed as environmental friendl y dyeing in the21st century.In thi s pa per,the characteristic and m echanism of a ir fl ow dyeing and air flow dyei ng machi ne are review ed,together w i th their compa ra tive analysis.
Key Terms D yeing machine Air f low d y eing machine Liquid f low dyeing machine Comparison ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Liu Jiangjian(13) Application of R and KE Reactive Dyes in Polyamide/C otton Blends
With R reactive dye/neutral dye in one bath,the dyeing ti m e of pol yamide/cotton blends reduced to4~5h from original10 h.For KE reactive d yes,the pH va lue for dyeing polyamide should be6~7to avoid breaki ng the dye fiber bond.
Key Terms D yeing Reactive d y e Blended f abric Polyamide f iber Cotton f iber ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Guo Wanyou et al(15) Nylon Fabric Dyeing Process on Jet Dyeing Machine
Under the process condi tions of suitable temperature,pH va lue a nd auxili ary dosage,nylon fa bric dyeing on j et dyeing m a chine can obtai n i deal effect and the ratio of first quali ty products ca n reach more tha n86%.
Key Terms D yeing Jet dyeing machine Fabric Polyamide f iber
Li Yanhong(16)………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Pattern and Color Control of Digital Jet Printing
There are tw o methods to control pattern and color of digi tal j et pri nting:color management and col or chart appl ication. The col or system of di gital imag e and color management system,as well as the factors affecting the color of digita l jet printing are all described in deta ils.
Key Terms Jet p rinting Color Pattern Management Color chart Fabric Com p uter application …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Lin Hong et al(18) Dyeing and Finishing Process of Cotton Sanded Fabric
The pretreatment,dyeing and fini shi ng process and process conditi ons of cotton sanded fabric are i ntroduced i n this paper. Key Terms D yeing and f inishing Sanded f abric Cotton f abric
Long Yanbin et al(21)………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Developments in New Polyester-Cotton Elastic Drills

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