Hiroshima! Everybody off! ‖ That must be what the man in the Japanese stationmaster's uniform shouted, as the fastest train in the world slipped to a stop in Hiroshima Station. I did not understand what he was saying. First of all, because he was shouting in Japanese. And secondly, because I had a lump in my throat and a lot of sad thoughts on my mind that had little to do with anything a Nippon railways official might say. The very act of stepping on this soil, in breathing this air of Hiroshima, was for me a far greater adventure than any trip or any reportorial assignment I'd previously taken. Was I not at the scene of the crime?―广岛到了!大家请下车!‖当世界上最快的高速列车减速驶进广岛车站并渐渐停稳时，那位身着日本火车站站长制服的男人口中喊出的一定是这样的话。我其实并没有听懂他在说些什么，一是因为他是用日语喊的，其次，则是因为我
当时心情沉重，喉咙哽噎，忧思万缕，几乎顾不上去管那日本铁路官员说些什么。踏上这块土地，呼吸着广岛的空气，对我来说这行动本身已是一套令人激动的经历，其意义远远超过我以往所进行的任何一
次旅行或采访活动。难道我不就是在犯罪现场吗?
The Japanese crowd did not appear to have the same preoccupations  that I had. From the sidewalk outside the station, things seemed mu ch the same as in other Japanese cities. Little girls and elderly ladies
in kimonos rubbed shoulders with teenagers and women in western dress. Serious looking men spoke to one another as if they were obli vious of the crowds about them, and bobbed up and down re-heatedl y in little bows, as they exchanged the ritual formula of gratitude and  respect: "Tomo aligato gozayimas." Oth ers were using little red
telephones that hung on the facades of grocery stores and to bacco shops. 这儿的日本人看来倒没有我这样的忧伤情绪。从车站
外的人行道上看去，这儿的一切似乎都与日本其他城市没什么两样。
身着和嘏的小姑娘和上了年纪的太太与西装打扮的少年和妇女摩肩接豫；神情严肃的男人们对周围的人似乎视而不见，只顾着相互交淡，并不停地点头弯腰，互致问候：―多么阿里伽多戈扎伊马嘶。‖还有
人在使用杂货铺和烟草店门前挂着的小巧的红电话通话。 "Hi! Hi! " said the cab driver, whose door popped open at the very sig
ht of a traveler. "Hi", or something that sounds very much li ke it, means "yes". "Can you take me to City Hall?" He grinne
d at m
e in the rear-view mirror and repeated "Hi!" "Hi! ‘ We
set off at top speed through the narrow streets of Hiroshima. The tall buildings of the martyred city flashed by as we lur ched from side to side in response to the driver's sharp twis
ts of the wheel. ―嗨! 嗨!‖出租汽车司机一看见旅客，就砰地打
开车门，这样打着招呼。―嗨‖，或者某个发音近似―嗨‖的什么词，意思是―对‖或―是‖。―能送我到市政厅吗?‖司机对着后视镜冲
我一笑，又连声―嗨!‖―嗨!‖出租车穿过广岛市区狭窄的街巷全
速奔驰，我们的身子随着司机手中方向盘的一次次急转而前俯后仰，
东倒西歪。与此同时，这座曾惨遭劫难的城市的高楼大厦则一座座地
从我们身边飞掠而过。 Just as I was beginning to find the ride
long, the taxi screeched to a halt, and the driver got out a nd went over to a policeman to ask the way. As in Tokyo, taxi
drivers in Hiroshima often know little of their city, but to
avoid loss of face before foreigners, will not admit their i gnorance, and will accept any destination without concern for
how long it may take them to find it. 正当我开始觉得路程太长时，汽车嘎地一声停了下来，司机下车去向警察问路。就像东京的情
形一样，广岛的出租车司机对他们所在的城市往往不太熟悉，但因为
怕在外国人面前丢脸，却又从不肯承认这一点。无论乘客指定的目的sort of house翻译
地在哪里，他们都毫不犹豫地应承下来，根本不考虑自己要花多长时
间才能到目的地。 At last this intermezzo came to an end, an
d I found myself in front of th
e gigantic City Hall. The ushe
r bowed deeply and heaved a long, almost musical sigh, when I
showed him the invitation which the mayor had sent me in res ponse to my request for an interview. "That is not here, sir, " he said in English. "The mayor expects you tonight for dinn
er with other foreigners or, the restaurant boat. See? This i
s where it is.‖ He sketched a little map for me on the back
of my invitation. 这段小插曲后来终于结束了，我也就不知不觉地
突然来到了宏伟的市政厅大楼前。当我出示了市长应我的采访要求而
发送的请柬后，市政厅接待人员向我深深地鞠了一躬，然后声调悠扬
地长叹了一口气。―不是这儿，先生，‖他用英语说道。―市长邀请
您今天晚上同其他外宾一起在水上餐厅赴宴。您看，就是这儿。‖他
边说边为我在请柬背面勾划出了一张简略的示意图。 Thanks to his map, I was able to find a taxi driver who could take me strai ght to the canal embankment, where a sort of barge with a roo
f like one on a Japanese house was moored. The Japanese build
their traditional houses on boats when land becomes too expe
nsive. The rather arresting spectacle of little old Japan adr
ift adrift amid beige concrete skyscrapers is the very symbol
of the incessant struggle between the kimono and the miniski rt. 幸亏有了他画的图，我才到一辆出租车把我直接送到了运河堤岸，那儿停泊着一艘顶篷颇像一般日本房屋屋顶的大游艇。由于地价
过于昂贵，日本人便把传统日本式房屋建到了船上。漂浮在水面上的
旧式日本小屋夹在一座座灰黄摩天大楼之间，这一引人注目的景观
正象征着和服与超短裙之间持续不断的斗争。 At the door to the r estaurant, a stunning, porcelain-faced woman in traditional c ostume asked me to remove my shoes. This done, I entered one
of the low-ceilinged rooms of the little floating house, trea ding cautiously on the soft matting and experiencing a twinge
of embarrassment at the prospect of meeting the mayor of Hir oshima in my socks. 在水上餐厅的门口，一位身着和服、面如玉、风姿绰约的迎宾女郎告诉我要脱鞋进屋。于是我便脱下鞋子，走进这
座水上小屋里的一个低矮的房间，蹑手蹑脚地踏在柔软的榻榻米地席上，因想到要这样穿着袜子去见广岛市长而感到十分困窘不安。 He was a tall, thin man, sad-eyed and serious. Quite unexpectedl y, the strange emotion which had overwhelmed me at the statio
n returned, and I was again crushed by the thought that I now
stood on the site of the first atomic bombardment, where tho usands upon thousands of people had been slain in one second,
where thousands upon thousands of others had lingered on to die in slow agony.市长是位瘦高个儿的男人，目光忧郁，神情严肃。出人意料的是，刚到广岛车站时袭扰着我的那种异样的忧伤情绪竟在
这时重新袭上心头，我的心情又难受起来，因为我又一次意识到自己
置身于曾遭受第一颗轰击的现场。这儿曾有成千上万的生命顷
刻之间即遭毁灭，还有成千上万的人在痛苦的煎熬中慢慢死去。
The introductions were made. Most of the guests were Japanese, and it was difficult for me to ask them just why we were gat hered here. The few Americans and Germans seemed just as inhi bited as I
was. "Gentlemen," said the mayor, "I am happyto we lcome you to Hiroshima." 到场的宾客们被互相介绍了一番。他们大
多数都是日本人，我也不好开口去问为什么要请我们来这儿聚会。在
场的少数几位美国人和德国人看来也同我一样有些局促不安。―先
生们，‖市长开言道，―我很高兴欢迎你们到广岛来。‖ Everyone b owed, including the Westerners. After three days in Japan, th
e spinal column becomes extraordinarily flexible. 大家都开始
弯腰鞠躬，连在场的西方人也不例外。只要在日本呆上三天，人的脊
椎骨就会变得特别地柔韧灵活。 "Gentlemen, it is a very great honor to have you her e in Hiroshima." There were fresh bows,
and the faces grew more and more serious each time the name Hiroshima was repeated. ―先生们，你们光临广岛是我们的极大荣幸。‖ 大家又开始鞠躬。随着广岛这一名字的一次次重复，大家的
面容变得越来越严肃起来。 "Hiroshima, as you know, is a city f amiliar to eve ryone,‖ continued the mayor. ―广岛，大家知道，是一座大家都很熟悉的城市，‖市长接着说道。 "Yes, yes, of cou rse,‖ murmured the company, more and more agitated. ―对，对，当然是这样，‖在场的人们低声议论着，脸上的神越来越不安起来。 "Seldom has a city gained such world renown, and I am proud and happy to welcome you to Hiroshima, a town known throughou
t the world for its--- oysters". ―难得有个城市像广岛这样闻名
遐迩。我既高兴而又自豪地欢迎诸位来到广岛。令广岛如此举世闻
名的乃是它的——牡蛎。‖ I was just about to make my little b ow of assent, when the meaning of these last words sank in, j olting me out of my sad reverie. 我正准备点头对市长的话表示赞同，可就在这时，我突然听明白了刚才这句话末尾几个字的意义，我
的头脑也就随之从忧愁伤感中清醒过来。 "Hiroshima – oysters? W hat about the bomb and the misery and humanity's most heinous crime?" ―广岛——牡蛎? 怎么没提和这个城市所遭受的灾难
以及人类有史以来犯下的最大的罪恶呢?‖ While the mayor went on
with his speech in praise of southern Japanese sea food, I c autiously backed away and headed towar
d the far side of the r oom, where a few men were talking among themselves and paying
little attention to the mayor's speech. 市长还在继续演讲，一
个劲儿赞美着日本南方的海味。我蹑手蹑脚地退到屋子的后边，那儿
有几个人在开小会，没怎么理睬市长的演讲。"You look puzzled," said a small Japanese man with very large eye-glasses. ―您
看上去像是心中有什么疑惑未解似的，‖一个身材矮小、戴着一副特
大眼镜的日本人对我说道。 "Well, I must confess that I did not
expect a speech about oysters here. I thought that Hiroshima
still felt the impact of the atomic imp act." ―不错，我得承
认我真的没有料到在这儿会听到一番关于牡蛎的演说。我原以为广岛
仍未摆脱灾祸的阴影。‖ "No one talks about it any more,
and no one wants to, especially, the people who were born he
re or who lived through it.‖ ―没有人再去谈它了，谁都不愿再
提了，尤其是在这儿出生的或是亲身经历了那场灾难的人。‖ "Do yo u feel the same way, too?" ―你也是这种态度吗?‖ "I was here, but I was not in the center of town. I tell you this because  I am almost an old man. There are two different schools of t hought in this city of oysters, one that would like to preser ve traces of the bomb, and the other that would like to get r id of everything, even the monument that was erected at the p oint of impact. They would also like to demolish the atomic m useum." ―我当时就在这个城市，不过没在市中心。我之所以对您讲
起这些，是因为我已差不多步入老年了。在这个以牡蛎闻名的城市里有两种截然不同的意见，一种主张保存爆炸留下的痕迹，另一种则主张销毁一切痕迹，甚至要拆除立于爆炸中心的纪念碑。这一派
人还要求拆掉
原子博物馆。‖ "Why would they want to do that?" ―你们为什么要这样做呢?‖ "Because it hurts everybody, and because time m arches on. That is why." The small Japanese man smiled, his e yes nearly closed behind their thick lenses. "If you write ab out this city, do not forget to say that it is the gayest cit y in Japan, even it many of the town's people still bear hidd en wounds, and burns." ―因为那些东西使人伤感，因为时代毕竟
在前进。‖小个子日本人面带微笑，一双眼睛在厚厚的镜片后面眯成
了一条缝。―假如您要描写这座城市的话，千万别忘记告诉人们这是日本最快乐的城市，尽管这里的市民许多人身上还带着暗伤和明显的
灼伤。‖ Like any other, the hospital smelled of formaldehyde  and ether. Stretchers and wheelchairs lined the walls of end less corridors, and nurses walked by carrying Stretchers inst ruments, the very sight of which would send shivers down the spine of any healthy visitor. The so-called atomic section wa s located on the third floor. It consisted of 17 beds. 和其他任何一家医院一样，这家医院里也弥漫着甲醛和乙醚的气味。长得看
不到尽头的走廊墙边排列着无数的担架和轮椅，穿廊而过的护士手中都端着镀镍的医疗器械，使得来这儿的健康人一看便脊背发凉。所谓原子病区设在三楼，共有十七个病床。 "I am a fisherman by trade.
I have been here a very long time, more than twenty years, " said an old man in Japanese pajamas. ―我是以打鱼为生的，在这儿已呆了好久了，二十多年了。‖一个身穿日本式睡衣的老人这样对我说。―What is wrong with you?‖ ―你是受的什么伤?‖ "Someth ing inside. I was in Hiroshima when it happ ened. I saw the f

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