中国近代服饰变革
小组成员:徐雨惠子,朱倩,李娜,周刊,李睿乾
Great changes in fashion habe taken place in the 60 years since 1949 and the founding of New China. These changes provide us with a vivid illustration of an assortment of historical movements that have influenced several generations of Chinese. Each change in color or detail, which sped up since 1976,defined the respective era’s rapid economic development and helped transform people’s minds. We’d like to explore these changes in each decade with you.
回眸新中国60年服饰变迁,无论颜还是款式,抑或服饰细节,都发生了翻天覆地的变化,无一不体现着几代人伴随着共和国走过的路。尤其是改革开放以来,服装发生这日新月异的变化,风格由单一渐趋多元,彩由单调趋于斑斓,而隐于背后的是社会经济的巨大发展、人们思想观念的多元变化。下面我们将划分5个年代,为大家展开这幅生动的服饰画卷。
(1)50年代:中山装列宁服
As New China’s ideology changed, Western- style suits and cheongsams among the upper classes gradually faded from the mainstream. By contrast people prided themselves on wearing Chinese tunic suits and Lenin suits. Other favored clothing included military uniforms , the bib and brace overall and “platye”( button-up dress). Gray, blue and green were the colors of choice.
新中国诞生伊始,意识形态发生了翻天覆地的变化,从前被视为身份象征的西装革履和刺绣旗袍被深深埋藏了,而能穿上中山装和列宁服的才是人们心目中羡慕的对象。50年代服装流行关键词还有军便装、工装背带裤、“布拉吉”(连衣裙)。灰、蓝、绿成了流行。
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图1:列宁装 图2:无彩中的一抹亮——布拉吉
图3:工装背带裤
Once PLA troops were established in cities, people soon imitated the cadres’ uniforms. The Chinese tunic suit, Chairman Mao Zedong’s favorite and known in the West as the “Mao suit” became popular among Chinese men. The outfit feature
s sharp lapels and slanting pockets. The green version of the same clothes, known as military plain-clothes, later came into vogue.
解放初期,进驻各个城市的军队干部都穿中山装,人们争相效仿。于是,尖领斜兜的毛式中山装成为当时的主流男装款式,之后又出现了军便装等改良中山装系列。
图4:中山装后来成为中国男子标准服装“干部服”
In the 1950s and early 60s, Chinese dress was deeply influenced by the Soviet Union. Women wore the fashionable Lenin suit , a jacket-and-tro user combination featuring a large turned-down collar,double lines of buttons, and slanting pockets. A belt around waist also silhouetted a woman’s curvy figure.
cheongsam在50年代至60年代初,中国在穿着上受前苏联的影响很大。中国女性穿起了时髦的列宁装,这种大翻领、双排扣、斜口袋的套装或多或少带有装饰因素。它附加的腰带有助于女性身体线条的凸现。
Also in the 1950s and early 60s, most Chinese women liked to wear “ platyes” in s
ummer. The Soviet female experts working in China often wore “platyes”, featuring round-collars, loose short sleeves, pleated hemlines and a belt. “Platyes” were usually printed with dense flower, tartan or striped patterns. Now, many middle-aged women are still seen wearing modified “platyes” in summer.
50年代,身穿飘逸“布拉吉”的前苏联援华女专家成了大众直接模仿的对象。这种款式的特点是有简单的圆领、宽松的短袖、褶皱边、碎花、格子和条纹,腰间系一条带子,流行了很久,以至于现在许多中年妇女夏季的裙装还是褶皱稍加变化的“布拉吉”。
People honored physical labor and what could be termed a “severe style”. Women dressed in cotton, and clothing made of expensive satin was discarded. Girls liked to wear bib and brace overalls which had a chest pocket, and often chose brimmed hats and shoes with rubber soles to go with them.
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